Car help? Thoughts?

PaigeBoo

|KKK|s wise lesbian
Former Krew Member
1) The problem does not go away, but if I pull over and let it idle, it tends to work itself out eventually.
2) It has been using more fuel since it started acting up yes, my gas mileage has plummeted quite a bit.
3) When it plays up it loses almost ALL power, it will only go about 35 to 40, and it takes time to get up to that speed. It doesn't shift properly either.
 

Joe Momma

First Lieutenant
Former Krew Member
Change the fluids, motor oil, transmission oil. Hopefully after the tranny oil is changed it might start shifting again.
 

Pugsport

Second Lieutenant
|K3| Member
It sounds like from what you have said it could be MAF sensor or Speed sensor

id pull the MAF sensor out and clean it with some brake and clutch cleaner and see if that helps out at all (altho cleaning it wont make it work for to long it will give you the heads up as to if its that sensor or not)
 

PaigeBoo

|KKK|s wise lesbian
Former Krew Member
Thanks Pug, I'll have a look at the MAF and clean it when I get a chance, and Joe, we changed all of the fluids not to long ago, just to see if that would help with any of the issues.
 

Rsmudvayne

The Knife King
Former Krew Member
the computers arent that coastly i jsut got done buying one for my blazer coast about $150.00 but most her problem to me souynds like she has shorts somewhere and probably going to need to find it to stop the dome light issue the speed senor im not to sure but i dont think it would casue the car to start jerking more transmission or somewhere lose could do that..

and i do agree with avc on the wiper thing but it pruty simple fix if u know how to get to the problem id play around with the turn signal and see how bad it is like jsut a bump set them off or you gota move it just right but takeing the streeing column apart and looking at he wires and actuly seeing will be your best bet on finding out if it is a short....



OK, the fluid sensor. If you're happy to not have some indicator light to tell you the level, you can bypass it. It'll either ground the wire when the fluid's low or the opposite. First, take the wire off the back, if the low coolant light is on, attach the wire to the negative of the battery or any metal part nearby, the light should go out. Problemo solved!

The speed sensor is a bit tricky. it's either the sender (a little device screwed into, normally, the gearbox) the wiring (unlikely) or the computer (which would be expensive). The wiring, if that was the prob, should be easy to spot, as it would normally happen near the device or if the wiring loom is physically damaged, like rubbing against something. It is extremely rare for a fault to occur within a wrapped wiring loom (but it is possible). My guess would be the sender, as it is in the most extreme environment (a hot vibrating slab of metal). Replace it first. Process of elimination.

The wiper thing DOES sound like wiring fault, mainly because with stalk controls the wires get bent back and forth a lot over the years. If it's wiring, it will be right at the steering column or the switch.

Dome light switches are another common fault. Again, they are a crappy switch that earths the circuit. They will have a single wire on the back of the switch. If the light comes on just play with the switches in turn with the door open (repeated pushes of the switch) which may help to track down which button is faulty.

Buy a can of black spray paint for the hood.

The windshield you'll have to call in the pros.
 
Top Bottom